Tray 5 — Feeding & Breeding Zone

Active feeding layer where most worms reside. Keep bedding moist and rotate feeding areas.

Tray 4 — Expansion Zone

Light feeding starts here around week 3–4. Encourages worms to spread and expand.

Tray 3 — Moisture Buffer

Just bedding and moisture. No feeding. Helps regulate temperature and humidity.

Tray 2 — Castings Harvest Tray

Eventually becomes worm-free as worms migrate up. Ready for castings harvest.

Tray 1 — Leachate Tray

Collects liquid runoff. Do not place food or worms here. Ensure spout drainage works.

Worm Bin Setup Guide

Follow these simple steps to start your worm farm right. Whether you’re composting in an apartment or garden shed, we’ve got you.

Step-by-Step Setup

Choose your bin: Use a multi-tier tray worm bin with good ventilation. Look for a design with legs and a bottom spout to collect leachate.
Prepare the bedding: Shred cardboard, newspaper, and mix in coco coir. This acts as the worms’ initial bedding and habitat.
Dampen the bedding: Add just enough water so it feels like a wrung-out sponge. Avoid soaking it.
Add your worms: Gently place your red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) into the top layer. Let them burrow and acclimate.
Begin feeding: Start small with soft food scraps like banana peels, coffee grounds, and veggie ends. Avoid citrus, onions, dairy, and meat.
See the full worm feeding guide
Cover the surface: Use a damp sheet of newspaper or breathable burlap. This helps retain moisture and creates a dark environment for the worms.
Stack trays as needed: Once the first tray is nearly full, add another layer of bedding to a new tray and place it on top. Worms will migrate upward naturally.
Harvest castings: When a tray is dark, rich, and smells earthy, it’s ready to harvest. Replace it with an empty tray to continue the cycle.

The bottom tray is for leachate, not compost. Be sure your spout is working and there’s enough ventilation underneath to avoid anaerobic buildup.